Mis à jour : 23 mai 2020
There are two major categories of solid shampoo on the market and we have to know to buy what fits better to our needs.
First, note that it is impossible to obtain a neutral or acidic pH with a soap bar, a soap is basic. That being said, our scalp pH is around 5.5 (acidic).
The Syndets (the bars with the noodles inside)
These are the shampoo bars made with ingredients that look most like your good old bottle of shampoo that you want to eliminate.
They have a pH adapted to the scalp and do not cause the heavy effect of soap in the hair. The ingredients are relatively the same and the effect on the hair is therefore to be confused with your favorite shampoo bottle. Syndet is an abbreviation for Synthetic Detergent, which means that your bar of soap is actually a bar of synthetic detergents. This is not necessarily bad. I would even say that ... What's more naughty for our hair ... Are
The soaps! That have been renamed to shampoo bars...
These are soap bars, saponified oils that have a pH way too high for the scalp. Some add noodles and several additives to give a cool look and try to adjust the effect on the hair but beware; A pH that isn't balanced for hair can damage your hair and even wash away your beautiful color.
Merchants will also make the suggestion to rinse your hair with apple cider vinegar, to lower the pH even further. This is a question of preferences, as long as the consumer is aware of what he uses ... But this is unfortunately rarely the case.
Personally I do not like the effect of a soap in my hair and even less the smell of vinegar for a rinse but that does not detract from the fact that there is very good shampoo-soaps on the market and that some people have adopted them. A cure is necessary to remove the silicones deposited on your hair following the washing with pharmacy shampoo, it can last about a month so do not judge too quickly and see for yourself what you prefer.
If you're not sure when you're shopping for a solid shampoo, send me your list of ingredients I'll help you understand the makeup of your little find.
Some detergents are more harmful than others, so here are the important info to know if you want to buy a syndet:
Noodles are made of:
My favorite, it is softer and at a very low concentration of sulfate.Its small name: Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
It is also known as sodium isethionate. It is a sodium salt derived from coconut oil. ... Basically, sodium isethionate helps water adhere to dirt and oil from your skin, allowing it to be removed. Because of the mild nature of sodium isethionate, it is often present in toothpastes and baby soaps.
Or made of...
To avoid, in my opinion. (see also SLS)
His little name: Sodium Coco Sulfate,
Some use it and must lower the pH which is very difficult since it drops drastically at a certain point. I suggest you ask the merchant for a pH test before buying a product that contains it and make sure that the list of ingredients contains a citric acid or other acid that can lower the pH.
The process for making sodium coco sulphate is the same as for sodium lauryl sulphate (which I will explain below). Although the proportion of lauryl sulphate in sodium coconut sulphate is not strictly defined, this percentage may be higher and manufacturers are free to make it as high as they wish. In summary: Sodium sulphate contains mainly SLS.
That I also avoid ...
Its small name: Sodium lauryl sulphate or Sodium lauryl sulfate
it's a synthetic detergent used in a wide range of personal care products. Unfortunately, many so-called "natural" products contain SLS.
SLS belongs to a class of medium to strong surfactants (or "surfactants") known as alkyl sulfates. As a group, these chemicals have a commercial advantage: high cleaning power, high foam production (which people associate with better cleaning - although foaming and cleaning are two very different things) and a cost of cleaning. very low production. Unfortunately, they are also irritating to the skin, in part because they remove the protective oils from the skin. In fact, sodium lauryl sulphate is a gold standard for irritations in skin irritation studies.
That I also avoid ... His little name: Sodium laureth sulfate. Similar to SLS, a little softer.
It's very popular, it's everywhere. I use it to improve the foaming effect of my Syndets.
His little name: Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
It bears a very similar name to one of the most common sulfated ingredients, lauryl sulfate and sodium (SLS). So you might be tempted to avoid it. Both ingredients are surfactants that can create bubbles and lather cleaners, but that's where the similarity ends. According to Syd Salmon of SLI Beauty, SLS is a cheaper ingredient manufactured in the laboratory, while SLSA is naturally derived from coconut and palm oils. Like laureth disodosulfonuccinate, the SLSA molecule is too big to penetrate the skin, causing less irritation than sulphates.
Coco Betaine (CAPB) Is a very mild surfactant, I even use it in my toothpaste. His little name: Cocamidopropyl betaine
It's derived from coco-methyl esters. It is appreciated for its foaming qualities and its ability to serve as a thickening agent and viscosity. Cocamidopropyl Betaine leaves hair and skin soft and smooth and is compatible with other cationic, anionic and nonionic surfactants, making it a favorite for cosmetic formulators. It is not suitable for being the only surfactant in a formulation, but may act as a primary or secondary surfactant.
If you think you have psoriasis in your scalp (and especially if you only have it in your scalp), it may be the SLS, SLES and / or SLSA that irritates you. (In my case it was that, my sensitive scalp shampoo quickly resolved the problem).
La Bulle recipes are available on Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/shop/LaBulleShop
If you want to keep it simple, trust La Bulle !